When I visited the Kentucky Old State Capitol in Frankfort, I didn’t expect to be so surprised (or amused) by what I’d learn. It’s a grand Greek Revival building with pillars and a Greco-Roman dome, but the stories packed inside this relatively small space go way beyond architecture.
The Third Time’s the Charm
This is actually the third version of Kentucky’s capitol. The first two burned down, both on the same spot. After the second fire, the state held an open design competition, and 24-year-old Gideon Shryock from Lexington won. He gave Kentucky its first Greek Revival building west of the Appalachians—pretty impressive for someone who, by modern standards, might not even be out of college yet.
The front is windowless, with tall columns and a triangular pediment. The dome leans more Roman in style than Greek, and it’s topped with a glass lantern that pulls in natural light—clever way to reduce the need for candles and lower fire risks. (A good call, considering their track record.)
Love State Capitols? Check out the Pennsylvania State Capitol and Arkansas State Capitol articles, too.
Cool Features, Craftsmanship, and Some Mystery
The keyhole staircase starts in the middle and curves up both sides—partially floating yet somehow still rock-solid after all this time.
Another highlight: the plaster ceiling details, made using molds and attached piece by piece. They were designed by Henry Mordecai, who was born into slavery, bought his freedom (and his family’s), and became a respected craftsman in the community. That kind of backstory adds a lot of weight to what might otherwise just be “nice ceiling trim.”
Powered by Prison Labor (and a Very Questionable Boss)
Much of the building’s construction was done using prisoner labor, under a system that allowed the penitentiary keeper, Joel Scott, to personally profit. Conditions were brutal—so bad that workers sometimes injured themselves to escape the job. Scott also invented a 16-blade steam-powered sawmill to help shape the building’s stone, including those iconic steps.
A Capitol That Couldn’t Fit a Government
The Old State Capitol was never quite big enough. The Executive Branch had to work out of the annex next door, while the legislature and courts squeezed into the main building. That size limitation shows, especially when you hear how many books used to be crammed in the State Law Library (14,000+). You could even check them out, but if you didn’t return them on time, they’d dock your pay. Harsh.
Then there’s Governor Thomas Bramlette’s desk. He reportedly asked for a secret compartment… but could never find it. No one else has either. Was it a myth? A prank? The world may never know.
The House vs. The Senate: Who Had It Better?
The House of Representatives had a public gallery for spectators and one spittoon per row (you know, the 1800s were a different time). In contrast, the Senate got visitor benches and nicer furniture—and yes, each senator had their own spittoon. Priorities. No one knows how the Senate chamber was originally laid out, but it was clearly the fancier of the two.
A Gassy Situation
When gas lighting was introduced in the 1850s, they installed matching chandeliers in both chambers. At first, the natural gas was processed on site, which made the whole place smell awful—so bad that people complained until the gas processing was moved elsewhere. Between that, tobacco smoke, and all the chewing and spitting, let’s just say it probably wasn’t the freshest-smelling place to work.
Unexpected Keepsakes from Kentucky’s Past
Before heading out, I stumbled upon a Halloween-season exhibit of Victorian hair art—and yes, it’s as bizarre as it sounds. I’ve seen hair wreaths before, but this was my first time spotting a ring and earrings made from actual hair. And just when I thought it couldn’t get any stranger, I found hair clippings from Andrew Jackson and Henry Clay. Because… well, does it even help to know why?
Final Thoughts
It’s not the biggest or flashiest capitol, but the Kentucky Old State Capitol packs in more stories than you’d expect—some clever, some strange, and a few that still raise questions. If you’re in Frankfort, it’s well worth the stop. Just don’t go looking for that secret drawer—Governor Bramlette already tried.
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